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Meanwhile
,
it
also
turns
out
that
I
have
completely
underestimated
how
expensive
it
is
to
buy
property
in
Bali
.
Because
everything
is
so
cheap
here
,
you
would
assume
that
land
is
also
undervalued
,
but
that
’
s
a
mistaken
assumption
.
To
buy
land
in
Bali
-
especially
in
Ubud
-
can
get
almost
as
expensive
as
buying
land
in
Westchester
County
,
in
Tokyo
,
or
on
Rodeo
Drive
.
Which
is
completely
illogical
because
once
you
own
the
property
you
can
’
t
make
back
your
money
on
it
in
any
traditionally
logical
way
.
You
may
pay
approximately
$
25
,
000
for
an
aro
of
land
(
an
aro
is
a
land
measurement
roughly
translating
into
English
as
:
"
Slightly
bigger
than
the
parking
spot
for
an
SUV
"
)
,
and
then
you
can
build
a
little
shop
there
where
you
will
sell
one
batik
sarong
a
day
to
one
tourist
a
day
for
the
rest
of
your
life
,
for
a
profit
of
about
seventy
-
five
cents
a
hit
.
It
’
s
senseless
.
But
the
Balinese
value
their
land
with
a
passion
that
extends
beyond
the
reaches
of
economic
sense
.
Since
land
ownership
is
traditionally
the
only
wealth
that
Balinese
recognize
as
legitimate
,
property
is
valued
in
the
same
way
as
the
Masai
value
cattle
or
as
my
five
-
year
-
old
niece
values
lip
gloss
:
namely
,
that
you
cannot
have
enough
of
it
,
that
once
you
have
claimed
it
you
must
never
let
it
go
,
and
that
all
of
it
in
the
world
should
rightfully
belong
to
you
.
Moreover
-
as
I
discover
throughout
the
month
of
August
,
during
my
Narnia
-
like
voyage
into
the
intricacies
of
Indonesian
real
estate
-
it
’
s
almost
impossible
to
find
out
when
land
is
actually
for
sale
around
here
.
Balinese
who
are
selling
land
typically
don
’
t
like
other
people
to
know
that
their
land
is
up
for
sale
.
Now
,
you
would
think
it
might
be
advantageous
to
advertise
this
fact
,
but
the
Balinese
don
’
t
see
it
that
way
.
If
you
’
re
a
Balinese
farmer
and
you
’
re
selling
your
land
,
it
means
you
are
desperate
for
cash
,
and
this
is
humiliating
.
Also
,
if
your
neighbors
and
family
find
out
that
you
actually
sold
some
land
,
then
they
’
ll
assume
you
came
into
some
money
,
and
everyone
will
be
asking
if
they
can
borrow
that
money
.
So
land
becomes
available
for
sale
only
by
…
rumor
.
And
all
these
land
deals
are
executed
under
strange
veils
of
secrecy
and
deception
.
The
Western
expatriates
around
here
-
hearing
that
I
’
m
trying
to
buy
land
for
Wayan
-
start
gathering
around
me
,
offering
cautionary
tales
based
on
their
own
nightmarish
experiences
.
They
warn
me
that
you
can
never
really
be
certain
what
’
s
going
on
when
it
comes
to
real
estate
around
here
.
The
land
you
are
"
buying
"
may
not
actually
"
belong
"
to
the
person
who
is
"
selling
"
it
.
The
guy
who
showed
you
the
property
might
not
even
be
the
owner
,
but
only
the
disgruntled
nephew
of
the
owner
,
trying
to
get
one
over
on
his
uncle
because
of
some
old
family
dispute
.
Don
’
t
expect
that
the
boundaries
of
your
property
will
ever
be
clear
.
The
land
you
buy
for
your
dream
house
may
later
be
declared
"
too
close
to
a
temple
"
to
allow
a
building
permit
(
and
it
’
s
difficult
,
in
this
small
country
with
an
estimated
20
,
000
temples
,
to
find
any
land
that
is
not
too
close
to
a
temple
)
.
Also
you
must
take
into
consideration
that
you
’
re
quite
probably
living
on
the
slopes
of
a
volcano
and
you
might
be
straddling
a
fault
line
,
as
well
.
And
not
just
a
geological
fault
line
,
either
.
As
idyllic
as
Bali
seems
,
the
wise
keep
in
mind
that
this
is
,
in
fact
,
Indonesia
-
the
largest
Islamic
nation
on
earth
,
unstable
at
its
core
,
corrupt
from
the
highest
ministers
of
justice
all
the
way
down
to
the
guy
who
pumps
gas
into
your
car
(
and
who
only
pretends
to
fill
it
all
the
way
up
)
.
Some
kind
of
revolution
will
always
be
possible
here
at
any
moment
,
and
all
your
assets
may
be
reclaimed
by
the
victors
.
Probably
at
gunpoint
.
Negotiating
all
this
dodgy
business
is
not
something
I
have
any
qualifications
whatsoever
to
be
doing
.
I
mean
-
I
went
through
a
divorce
proceeding
in
New
York
State
and
everything
,
but
this
is
another
page
of
Kafka
altogether
.
Meanwhile
,
$
18
,
000
of
money
donated
by
me
,
my
family
and
my
dearest
friends
is
sitting
in
Wayan
’
s
bank
account
,
converted
into
Indonesia
rupiah
-
a
currency
that
has
a
history
of
crashing
without
notice
and
turning
to
vapor
.
And
Wayan
is
supposed
to
get
evicted
from
her
shop
in
September
,
which
is
around
the
time
I
leave
the
country
.
Which
is
in
about
three
weeks
.
But
it
’
s
turning
out
to
be
almost
impossible
for
Wayan
to
find
a
piece
of
land
she
deems
appropriate
for
a
home
.
Setting
aside
all
the
practical
considerations
,
she
has
to
examine
the
taksu
-
the
spirit
-
of
each
place
.
As
a
healer
,
Wayan
’
s
sense
of
taksu
,
even
by
Balinese
standards
,
is
supremely
acute
.
I
found
one
place
that
I
thought
was
perfect
,
but
Wayan
said
it
was
possessed
by
angry
demons
.
The
next
piece
of
land
was
rejected
because
it
was
too
close
to
a
river
,
which
,
as
everyone
knows
,
is
where
ghosts
live
.
