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- Ешь, молись, люби
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The
end
of
July
came
,
and
my
thirty
-
fifth
birthday
with
it
.
Wayan
threw
a
birthday
party
for
me
in
her
shop
,
quite
unlike
any
I
have
ever
experienced
before
.
Wayan
had
dressed
me
in
a
traditional
Balinese
birthday
suit
-
a
bright
purple
sarong
,
a
strapless
bustier
and
a
long
length
of
golden
fabric
that
she
wrapped
tightly
around
my
torso
,
forming
a
sheath
so
snug
I
could
barely
take
a
breath
or
eat
my
own
birthday
cake
.
As
she
was
mummifying
me
into
this
exquisite
costume
in
her
tiny
,
dark
bedroom
(
crowded
with
the
belongings
of
the
three
other
little
human
beings
who
live
there
with
her
)
,
she
asked
,
not
quite
looking
at
me
,
but
doing
some
fancy
tucking
and
pinning
of
material
around
my
ribs
,
"
You
have
prospect
to
marrying
Felipe
?
"
"
No
,
"
I
said
.
"
We
have
no
prospects
for
marrying
.
I
don
’
t
want
any
more
husbands
,
Wayan
.
And
I
don
’
t
think
Felipe
wants
any
more
wives
.
But
I
like
being
with
him
.
"
"
Handsome
on
the
outside
is
easy
to
find
,
but
handsome
on
the
outside
and
handsome
on
the
inside
-
this
not
easy
.
Felipe
has
this
.
"
I
agreed
.
She
smiled
.
"
And
who
bring
this
good
man
to
you
,
Liz
?
Who
prayed
every
day
for
this
man
?
"
I
kissed
her
.
"
Thank
you
,
Wayan
.
You
did
a
good
job
.
"
We
commenced
to
the
birthday
party
.
Wayan
and
the
kids
had
decorated
the
whole
place
with
balloons
and
palm
fronds
and
handwritten
signs
with
complex
,
run
-
on
messages
like
,
"
Happy
birthday
to
a
nice
and
sweet
heart
,
to
you
,
our
dearest
sister
,
to
our
beloved
Lady
Elizabeth
,
Happy
Birthday
to
you
,
always
peace
to
you
and
Happy
Birthday
.
"
Wayan
has
a
brother
whose
young
children
are
gifted
dancers
in
temple
ceremonies
,
and
so
the
nieces
and
nephews
came
and
danced
for
me
right
there
in
the
restaurant
,
staging
a
haunting
,
gorgeous
performance
usually
offered
only
to
priests
.
All
the
children
were
decked
out
in
gold
and
massive
headdresses
,
decorated
in
fierce
drag
queen
makeup
,
with
powerful
stamping
feet
and
graceful
,
feminine
fingers
.
Balinese
parties
as
a
whole
are
generally
organized
around
the
principle
of
people
getting
dressed
up
in
their
finest
clothes
,
then
sitting
around
and
staring
at
each
other
.
It
’
s
a
lot
like
magazine
parties
in
New
York
,
actually
.
(
"
My
God
,
darling
,
"
moaned
Felipe
,
when
I
told
him
that
Wayan
was
throwing
me
a
Balinese
birthday
party
,
"
it
’
s
going
to
be
so
boring
…
"
)
It
wasn
’
t
boring
,
though
-
just
quiet
.
And
different
.
There
was
the
whole
dressing
-
up
part
,
and
then
there
was
the
whole
dance
performance
part
,
and
then
there
was
the
whole
sitting
around
and
staring
at
each
other
part
,
which
wasn
’
t
so
bad
.
Everyone
did
look
lovely
.
Wayan
’
s
whole
family
had
come
,
and
they
kept
smiling
and
waving
at
me
from
four
feet
away
,
and
I
kept
smiling
at
them
and
waving
back
at
them
.
I
blew
out
the
candles
of
the
birthday
cake
along
with
Little
Ketut
,
the
smallest
orphan
,
whose
birthday
,
I
had
decided
a
few
weeks
ago
,
would
also
be
on
July
18
from
now
on
,
shared
with
my
own
,
since
she
’
d
never
had
a
birthday
or
a
birthday
party
before
.
