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After
we
blew
out
the
candles
,
Felipe
presented
Little
Ketut
with
a
Barbie
doll
,
which
she
unwrapped
in
stunned
wonder
and
then
regarded
as
though
it
were
a
ticket
for
a
rocket
ship
to
Jupiter
-
something
she
never
,
ever
in
seven
billion
light
-
years
could
’
ve
imagined
receiving
.
Everything
about
this
party
was
kind
of
funny
.
It
was
an
oddball
international
and
intergenerational
mix
of
a
handful
of
my
friends
,
Wayan
’
s
family
and
some
of
her
Western
clients
and
patients
whom
I
’
d
never
met
before
.
My
friend
Yudhi
brought
me
a
six
-
pack
of
beer
to
wish
me
happy
birthday
,
and
also
this
cool
young
hipster
screenwriter
from
L
.
A
.
named
Adam
came
by
.
Felipe
and
I
had
met
Adam
in
a
bar
the
other
night
and
had
invited
him
.
Adam
and
Yudhi
passed
their
time
at
the
party
talking
to
a
little
boy
named
John
,
whose
mother
is
a
patient
of
Wayan
’
s
,
a
German
clothing
designer
married
to
an
American
who
lives
in
Bali
.
Little
John
-
who
is
seven
years
old
and
who
is
kind
of
American
,
he
says
,
because
of
his
American
dad
(
even
though
he
himself
has
never
been
there
)
,
but
who
speaks
German
with
his
mother
and
speaks
Indonesian
with
Wayan
’
s
children
-
was
smitten
with
Adam
because
he
’
d
found
out
that
the
guy
was
from
California
and
could
surf
.
"
What
’
s
your
favorite
animal
,
mister
?
"
asked
John
,
and
Adam
replied
,
"
Pelicans
.
"
"
What
’
s
a
pelican
?
"
the
little
boy
asked
,
and
Yudhi
jumped
in
and
said
,
"
Dude
,
you
don
’
t
know
what
a
pelican
is
?
Dude
,
you
gotta
go
home
and
ask
your
dad
about
that
.
Pelicans
rock
,
dude
"
Then
John
,
the
kind
-
of
-
American
boy
,
turned
to
say
something
in
Indonesian
to
little
Tutti
(
probably
to
ask
her
what
a
pelican
was
)
as
Tutti
sat
in
Felipe
’
s
lap
trying
to
read
my
birthday
cards
,
while
Felipe
was
speaking
beautiful
French
to
a
retired
gentleman
from
Paris
who
comes
to
Wayan
for
kidney
treatments
.
Meanwhile
,
Wayan
had
turned
on
the
radio
and
Kenny
Rogers
was
singing
"
Coward
of
the
County
,
"
while
three
Japanese
girls
wandered
randomly
into
the
shop
to
see
if
they
could
get
medicinal
massages
.
As
I
tried
to
talk
the
Japanese
girls
into
eating
some
of
my
birthday
cake
,
the
two
orphans
-
Big
Ketut
and
Little
Ketut
-
were
decorating
my
hair
with
the
giant
spangled
barrettes
they
’
d
saved
up
all
their
money
to
buy
me
as
a
gift
.
Wayan
’
s
nieces
and
nephews
,
the
child
temple
dancers
,
the
children
of
rice
farmers
,
sat
very
still
,
tentatively
staring
at
the
floor
,
dressed
in
gold
like
miniature
deities
;
they
imbued
the
room
with
a
strange
and
otherworldly
godliness
.
Outside
,
the
roosters
started
crowing
,
even
though
it
was
not
yet
evening
,
not
yet
dusk
.
My
traditional
Balinese
clothing
was
squeezing
me
like
an
ardent
hug
,
and
I
was
feeling
like
this
was
definitely
the
strangest
-
but
maybe
the
happiest
-
birthday
party
I
’
d
ever
experienced
in
my
whole
life
.
Still
,
Wayan
needs
to
buy
a
house
,
and
I
’
m
getting
worried
that
it
’
s
not
happening
.
I
don
’
t
understand
why
it
’
s
not
happening
,
but
it
absolutely
needs
to
happen
.
Felipe
and
I
have
stepped
in
now
.
We
found
a
realtor
who
could
take
us
around
and
show
us
properties
,
but
Wayan
hasn
’
t
liked
anything
we
’
ve
shown
her
.
I
keep
telling
her
,
"
Wayan
,
it
’
s
important
that
we
buy
something
.
I
’
m
leaving
here
in
September
,
and
I
need
to
let
my
friends
know
before
I
leave
that
their
money
actually
went
into
a
home
for
you
.
And
you
need
to
get
a
roof
over
your
head
before
you
get
evicted
.
"
"
Not
so
simple
to
buy
land
in
Bali
,
"
she
keeps
telling
me
.
"
Not
like
to
walk
into
a
bar
and
buy
a
beer
.
Can
take
long
time
.
"
"
We
don
’
t
have
a
long
time
,
Wayan
.
"
She
just
shrugs
,
and
I
remember
again
about
the
Balinese
concept
of
"
rubber
time
,
"
meaning
that
time
is
a
very
relative
and
bouncy
idea
.
"
Four
weeks
"
doesn
’
t
really
mean
to
Wayan
what
it
means
to
me
.
One
day
to
Wayan
isn
’
t
necessarily
composed
of
twenty
-
four
hours
,
either
;
sometimes
it
’
s
longer
,
sometimes
it
’
s
shorter
,
depending
upon
the
spiritual
and
emotional
nature
of
that
day
.
As
with
my
medicine
man
and
his
mysterious
age
,
sometimes
you
count
the
days
,
sometimes
you
weigh
them
.
