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This
gives
a
slight
indication
of
how
important
family
is
in
Bali
,
and
how
important
your
placement
in
that
family
is
.
You
would
think
this
system
could
become
complicated
,
but
somehow
the
Balinese
work
it
out
.
Understandably
and
necessarily
,
nicknaming
is
popular
.
For
instance
,
one
of
the
most
successful
businesswomen
in
Ubud
is
a
lady
named
Wayan
who
has
a
busy
restaurant
called
Cafe
Wayan
,
and
so
she
is
known
as
"
Wayan
Cafe
"
-
meaning
,
"
The
Wayan
who
owns
Cafe
Wayan
.
"
Somebody
else
might
be
known
as
"
Fat
Made
,
"
or
"
Nyoman
-
Rental
-
Car
"
or
"
Stupid
-
Ketut
-
Who
-
Burned
-
Down
-
His
-
Uncle
s
-
House
.
"
My
new
Balinese
friend
Mario
got
around
the
problem
by
simply
naming
himself
Mario
.
"
Why
Mario
?
"
"
Because
I
love
everything
Italian
,
"
he
said
.
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When
I
told
him
that
I
d
recently
spent
four
months
in
Italy
,
he
found
this
fact
so
stupendously
amazing
that
he
came
out
from
behind
his
desk
and
said
,
"
Come
,
sit
,
talk
.
"
I
came
,
I
sat
,
we
talked
.
And
that
s
how
we
became
friends
.
So
this
afternoon
I
decide
to
start
my
search
for
my
medicine
man
by
asking
my
new
friend
Mario
if
by
any
chance
he
knows
a
man
by
the
name
of
Ketut
Liyer
.
Mario
frowns
,
thinking
I
wait
for
him
to
say
something
like
,
"
Ah
,
yes
!
Ketut
Liyer
!
Old
medicine
man
who
died
just
last
week
-
so
sad
when
venerable
old
medicine
man
passes
away
"
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Mario
asks
me
to
repeat
the
name
,
and
this
time
I
write
it
down
,
assuming
I
m
pronouncing
something
wrong
.
Sure
enough
,
Mario
brightens
in
recognition
.
"
Ketut
Liyer
!
"
Now
I
wait
for
him
to
say
something
like
,
"
Ah
,
yes
!
Ketut
Liyer
!
Insane
person
!
Arrested
last
week
for
being
a
crazy
man
"
But
he
says
instead
,
"
Ketut
Liyer
is
famous
healer
.
"