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I
d
finish
only
half
my
plate
,
Then
sleep
all
night
on
the
rest
.
I
ve
never
had
less
of
a
plan
in
my
life
than
I
do
upon
arrival
in
Bali
.
In
all
my
history
of
careless
travels
,
this
is
the
most
carelessly
I
ve
ever
landed
anyplace
.
I
don
t
know
where
I
m
going
to
live
,
I
don
t
know
what
I
m
going
to
do
,
I
don
t
know
what
the
exchange
rate
is
,
I
don
t
know
how
to
get
a
taxi
at
the
airport
-
or
even
where
to
ask
that
taxi
to
take
me
.
Nobody
is
expecting
my
arrival
.
I
have
no
friends
in
Indonesia
,
or
even
friends
-
of
-
friends
.
And
here
s
the
problem
about
traveling
with
an
out
-
of
-
date
guidebook
,
and
then
not
reading
it
anyway
:
I
didn
t
realize
that
I
m
actually
not
allowed
to
stay
in
Indonesia
for
four
months
,
even
if
I
want
to
.
I
find
this
out
only
upon
entry
into
the
country
.
Turns
out
I
m
allowed
only
a
one
-
month
tourist
visa
.
It
hadn
t
occurred
to
me
that
the
Indonesian
government
would
be
anything
less
than
delighted
to
host
me
in
their
country
for
just
as
long
as
I
pleased
to
stay
.
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As
the
nice
immigration
official
is
stamping
my
passport
with
permission
to
stay
in
Bali
for
only
and
exactly
thirty
days
,
I
ask
him
in
my
most
friendly
manner
if
I
can
please
remain
longer
.
"
No
,
"
he
says
,
in
his
most
friendly
manner
.
The
Balinese
are
famously
friendly
.
"
See
,
I
m
supposed
to
stay
here
for
three
or
four
months
,
"
I
tell
him
.
I
don
t
mention
that
it
s
a
prophecy
-
that
my
staying
here
for
three
or
four
months
was
predicted
two
years
ago
by
an
elderly
and
quite
possibly
demented
Balinese
medicine
man
,
during
a
ten
-
minute
palm
-
reading
.
I
m
not
sure
how
to
explain
this
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But
what
did
that
medicine
man
tell
me
,
now
that
I
think
of
it
?
Did
he
actually
say
that
I
would
come
back
to
Bali
and
spend
three
or
four
months
living
with
him
?
Did
he
really
say
"
living
with
"
him
?
Or
did
he
just
want
me
to
drop
by
again
sometime
if
I
was
in
the
neighborhood
and
give
him
another
ten
bucks
for
another
palm
-
reading
?
Did
he
say
I
would
come
back
,
or
that
I
should
come
back
?
Did
he
really
say
,
"
See
you
later
,
alligator
"
?
Or
was
it
,
"
In
a
while
,
crocodile
"
?
I
haven
t
had
any
communication
with
the
medicine
man
since
that
one
evening
.
I
wouldn
t
know
how
to
contact
him
,
anyway
.
What
might
his
address
be
?
"
Medicine
Man
,
On
His
Porch
,
Bali
,
Indonesia
"
?
I
don
t
know
whether
he
s
dead
or
alive
.
I
remember
that
he
seemed
exceedingly
old
two
years
ago
when
we
met
;
anything
could
have
happened
to
him
since
then
.
All
I
have
for
sure
is
his
name
-
Ketut
Liyer
-
and
the
memory
that
he
lives
in
a
village
just
outside
the
town
of
Ubud
.
But
I
don
t
remember
the
name
of
the
village
.
Maybe
I
should
have
thought
all
this
through
better
.