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"
Yes
!
That
’
s
him
!
"
"
I
know
him
.
I
go
in
his
house
.
Last
week
I
take
my
cousin
,
she
needs
cure
for
her
baby
crying
all
night
.
Ketut
Liyer
fixes
it
.
One
time
I
took
American
girl
like
you
to
Ketut
Liyer
’
s
house
.
Girl
wanted
magic
to
make
her
more
beautiful
to
men
.
Ketut
Liyer
draw
magic
painting
,
for
help
her
be
more
beautiful
.
I
tease
her
after
that
.
Every
day
I
tell
her
,
’
Painting
working
!
Look
how
beautiful
you
are
!
Painting
working
!
’
"
Remembering
the
image
Ketut
Liyer
had
drawn
for
me
a
few
years
ago
,
I
tell
Mario
that
I
’
d
gotten
a
magic
picture
myself
from
the
medicine
man
once
.
Mario
laughs
.
"
Painting
working
for
you
,
too
!
"
"
My
picture
was
to
help
me
find
God
,
"
I
explain
.
"
You
don
’
t
want
to
be
more
beautiful
to
men
?
"
he
asks
,
understandably
confused
.
I
say
,
"
Hey
,
Mario
-
do
you
think
you
could
take
me
to
visit
Ketut
Liyer
someday
?
If
you
’
re
not
too
busy
?
"
"
Not
now
,
"
he
says
.
Just
as
I
’
m
starting
to
feel
disappointed
,
he
adds
,
"
But
maybe
in
five
minutes
?
"
So
this
is
how
it
comes
to
pass
that
-
the
very
afternoon
I
have
arrived
in
Bali
-
I
’
m
suddenly
on
the
back
of
a
motorbike
,
clutching
my
new
friend
Mario
the
Italian
-
Indonesian
,
who
is
speeding
me
through
the
rice
terraces
toward
Ketut
Liyer
’
s
home
.
For
all
that
I
’
ve
thought
about
this
reunion
with
the
medicine
man
over
the
last
two
years
,
I
actually
have
no
idea
what
I
’
m
going
to
say
to
him
when
I
arrive
.
And
of
course
we
don
’
t
have
an
appointment
.
So
we
show
up
unannounced
.
I
recognize
the
sign
outside
his
door
,
same
as
last
time
,
saying
:
"
Ketut
Liyer
-
painter
.
"
It
’
s
a
typical
,
traditional
Balinese
family
compound
.
A
high
stone
wall
surrounds
the
entire
property
,
there
’
s
a
courtyard
in
the
middle
and
a
temple
in
the
back
.
Several
generations
live
out
their
lives
together
in
the
various
interconnected
small
homes
within
these
walls
.
We
enter
without
knocking
(
no
door
,
anyway
)
to
the
riotous
dismay
of
a
some
typical
Balinese
watchdogs
(
skinny
,
angry
)
and
there
in
the
courtyard
is
Ketut
Liyer
the
elderly
medicine
man
,
wearing
his
sarong
and
his
golf
shirt
,
looking
precisely
the
same
as
he
did
two
years
ago
when
I
first
met
him
.
Mario
says
something
to
Ketut
,
and
I
’
m
not
exactly
fluent
in
Balinese
,
but
it
sounds
like
a
general
introduction
,
something
along
the
lines
of
,
"
Here
’
s
a
girl
from
America
-
go
for
it
.
"