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Other
tourists
now
began
to
overtake
us
,
and
we
moved
on
to
the
sand-choked
Temple
of
the
Sphinx
,
fifty
yards
to
the
southeast
,
which
I
have
previously
mentioned
as
the
great
gate
of
the
causeway
to
the
Second
Pyramid
's
mortuary
chapel
on
the
plateau
.
Most
of
it
was
still
underground
,
and
although
we
dismounted
and
descended
through
a
modern
passageway
to
its
alabaster
corridor
and
pillared
hall
,
I
felt
that
Abdul
and
the
local
German
attendant
had
not
shown
us
all
there
was
to
see
.
After
this
we
made
the
conventional
circuit
of
the
pyramid
plateau
,
examining
the
Second
Pyramid
and
the
peculiar
ruins
of
its
mortuary
chapel
to
the
east
,
the
Third
Pyramid
and
its
miniature
southern
satellites
and
ruined
eastern
chapel
,
the
rock
tombs
and
the
honeycombings
of
the
Fourth
and
Fifth
dynasties
,
and
the
famous
Campbell
's
Tomb
whose
shadowy
shaft
sinks
precipitously
for
fifty-three
feet
to
a
sinister
sarcophagus
which
one
of
our
camel
drivers
divested
of
the
cumbering
sand
after
a
vertiginous
descent
by
rope
.
Cries
now
assailed
us
from
the
Great
Pyramid
,
where
Bedouins
were
besieging
a
party
of
tourists
with
offers
of
speed
in
the
performance
of
solitary
trips
up
and
down
.
Seven
minutes
is
said
to
be
the
record
for
such
an
ascent
and
descent
,
but
many
lusty
sheiks
and
sons
of
sheiks
assured
us
they
could
cut
it
to
five
if
given
the
requisite
impetus
of
liberal
baksheesh
.
They
did
not
get
this
impetus
,
though
we
did
let
Abdul
take
us
up
,
thus
obtaining
a
view
of
unprecedented
magnificence
which
included
not
only
remote
and
glittering
Cairo
with
its
crowned
citadel
background
of
gold-violet
hills
,
but
all
the
pyramids
of
the
Memphian
district
as
well
,
from
Abu
Roash
on
the
north
to
the
Dashur
on
the
south
.
The
Sakkara
step-pyramid
,
which
marks
the
evolution
of
the
low
mastaba
into
the
true
pyramid
,
showed
clearly
and
alluringly
in
the
sandy
distance
.
It
is
close
to
this
transition-monument
that
the
famed
tomb
of
Perneb
was
found
--
more
than
four
hundred
miles
north
of
the
Theban
rock
valley
where
Tut
--
Ankh-Amen
sleeps
.
Again
I
was
forced
to
silence
through
sheer
awe
.
The
prospect
of
such
antiquity
,
and
the
secrets
each
hoary
monument
seemed
to
hold
and
brood
over
,
filled
me
with
a
reverence
and
sense
of
immensity
nothing
else
ever
gave
me
.
Fatigued
by
our
climb
,
and
disgusted
with
the
importunate
Bedouins
whose
actions
seemed
to
defy
every
rule
of
taste
,
we
omitted
the
arduous
detail
of
entering
the
cramped
interior
passages
of
any
of
the
pyramids
,
though
we
saw
several
of
the
hardiest
tourists
preparing
for
the
suffocating
crawl
through
Cheops
'
mightiest
memorial
.
As
we
dismissed
and
overpaid
our
local
bodyguard
and
drove
back
to
Cairo
with
Abdul
Reis
under
the
afternoon
sun
,
we
half
regretted
the
omission
we
had
made
.
Such
fascinating
things
were
whispered
about
lower
pyramid
passages
not
in
the
guidebooks
;
passages
whose
entrances
had
been
hastily
blocked
up
and
concealed
by
certain
uncommunicative
archaeologists
who
had
found
and
begun
to
explore
them
.
Of
course
,
this
whispering
was
largely
baseless
on
the
face
of
it
;
but
it
was
curious
to
reflect
how
persistently
visitors
were
forbidden
to
enter
the
Pyramids
at
night
,
or
to
visit
the
lowest
burrows
and
crypt
of
the
Great
Pyramid
.
Perhaps
in
the
latter
case
it
was
the
psychological
effect
which
was
feared
--
the
effect
on
the
visitor
of
feeling
himself
huddled
down
beneath
a
gigantic
world
of
solid
masonry
;
joined
to
the
life
he
has
known
by
the
merest
tube
,
in
which
he
may
only
crawl
,
and
which
any
accident
or
evil
design
might
block
.
The
whole
subject
seemed
so
weird
and
alluring
that
we
resolved
to
pay
the
pyramid
plateau
another
visit
at
the
earliest
possible
opportunity
.
For
me
this
opportunity
came
much
earlier
than
I
expected
.
That
evening
,
the
members
of
our
party
feeling
some
what
tired
after
the
strenuous
program
of
the
day
,
I
went
alone
with
Abdul
Reis
for
a
walk
through
the
picturesque
Arab
quarter
.
Though
I
had
seen
it
by
day
,
I
wished
to
study
the
alleys
and
bazaars
in
the
dusk
,
when
rich
shadows
and
mellow
gleams
of
light
would
add
to
their
glamor
and
fantastic
illusion
.
The
native
crowds
were
thinning
,
but
were
still
very
noisy
and
numerous
when
we
came
upon
a
knot
of
reveling
Bedouins
in
the
Suken
--
Nahhasin
,
or
bazaar
of
the
coppersmiths
.
Their
apparent
leader
,
an
insolent
youth
with
heavy
features
and
saucily
cocked
tarbush
,
took
some
notice
of
us
,
and
evidently
recognized
with
no
great
friendliness
my
competent
but
admittedly
supercilious
and
sneeringly
disposed
guide
.
Perhaps
,
I
thought
,
he
resented
that
odd
reproduction
of
the
Sphinx
's
half-smile
which
I
had
often
remarked
with
amused
irritation
;
or
perhaps
he
did
not
like
the
hollow
and
sepulchral
resonance
of
Abdul
's
voice
.
At
any
rate
,
the
exchange
of
ancestrally
opprobrious
language
became
very
brisk
;
and
before
long
Ali
Ziz
,
as
I
heard
the
stranger
called
when
called
by
no
worse
name
,
began
to
pull
violently
at
Abdul
's
robe
,
an
action
quickly
reciprocated
and
leading
to
a
spirited
scuffle
in
which
both
combatants
lost
their
sacredly
cherished
headgear
and
would
have
reached
an
even
direr
condition
had
I
not
intervened
and
separated
them
by
main
force
.
