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The
road
now
rose
abruptly
,
till
we
finally
reached
our
place
of
transfer
between
the
trolley
station
and
the
Mena
House
Hotel
.
Abdul
Reis
,
who
capably
purchased
our
Pyramid
tickets
,
seemed
to
have
an
understanding
with
the
crowding
,
yelling
and
offensive
Bedouins
who
inhabited
a
squalid
mud
village
some
distance
away
and
pestiferously
assailed
every
traveler
;
for
he
kept
them
very
decently
at
bay
and
secured
an
excellent
pair
of
camels
for
us
,
himself
mounting
a
donkey
and
assigning
the
leadership
of
our
animals
to
a
group
of
men
and
boys
more
expensive
than
useful
.
The
area
to
be
traversed
was
so
small
that
camels
were
hardly
needed
,
but
we
did
not
regret
adding
to
our
experience
this
troublesome
form
of
desert
navigation
.
The
pyramids
stand
on
a
high
rock
plateau
,
this
group
forming
next
to
the
northernmost
of
the
series
of
regal
and
aristocratic
cemeteries
built
in
the
neighborhood
of
the
extinct
capital
Memphis
,
which
lay
on
the
same
side
of
the
Nile
,
somewhat
south
of
Gizeh
,
and
which
flourished
between
3400
and
2000
B.
C.
The
greatest
pyramid
,
which
lies
nearest
the
modern
road
,
was
built
by
King
Cheops
or
Khufu
about
2800
B.
C.
,
and
stands
more
than
450
feet
in
perpendicular
height
.
In
a
line
southwest
from
this
are
successively
the
Second
Pyramid
,
built
a
generation
later
by
King
Khephren
,
and
though
slightly
smaller
,
looking
even
larger
because
set
on
higher
ground
,
and
the
radically
smaller
Third
Pyramid
of
King
Mycerinus
,
built
about
2700
B.
C.
Near
the
edge
of
the
plateau
and
due
east
of
the
Second
Pyramid
,
with
a
face
probably
altered
to
form
a
colossal
portrait
of
Khephren
,
its
royal
restorer
,
stands
the
monstrous
Sphinx
--
mute
,
sardonic
,
and
wise
beyond
mankind
and
memory
.
Minor
pyramids
and
the
traces
of
ruined
minor
pyramids
are
found
in
several
places
,
and
the
whole
plateau
is
pitted
with
the
tombs
of
dignitaries
of
less
than
royal
rank
.
These
latter
were
originally
marked
by
mastabas
,
or
stone
bench-like
structures
about
the
deep
burial
shafts
,
as
found
in
other
Memphian
cemeteries
and
exemplified
by
Perneb
's
Tomb
in
the
Metropolitan
Museum
of
New
York
.
At
Gizeh
,
however
,
all
such
visible
things
have
been
swept
away
by
time
and
pillage
;
and
only
the
rock-hewn
shafts
,
either
sand-filled
or
cleared
out
by
archaeologists
,
remain
to
attest
their
former
existence
.
Connected
with
each
tomb
was
a
chapel
in
which
priests
and
relatives
offered
food
and
prayer
to
the
hovering
ka
or
vital
principle
of
the
deceased
.
The
small
tombs
have
their
chapels
contained
in
their
stone
mastabas
or
superstructures
,
but
the
mortuary
chapels
of
the
pyramids
,
where
regal
Pharaohs
lay
,
were
separate
temples
,
each
to
the
east
of
its
corresponding
pyramid
,
and
connected
by
a
causeway
to
a
massive
gate-chapel
or
propylon
at
the
edge
of
the
rock
plateau
.
The
gate-chapel
leading
to
the
Second
Pyramid
,
nearly
buried
in
the
drifting
sands
,
yawns
subterraneously
south-east
of
the
Sphinx
.
Persistent
tradition
dubs
it
the
'
Temple
of
the
Sphinx
'
;
and
it
may
perhaps
be
rightly
called
such
if
the
Sphinx
indeed
represents
the
Second
Pyramid
's
builder
Khephren
.
There
are
unpleasant
tales
of
the
Sphinx
before
Khephren
--
but
whatever
its
elder
features
were
,
the
monarch
replaced
them
with
his
own
that
men
might
look
at
the
colossus
without
fear
.
It
was
in
the
great
gateway-temple
that
the
life-size
diorite
statue
of
Khephren
now
in
the
Cairo
museum
was
found
;
a
statue
before
which
I
stood
in
awe
when
I
beheld
it
.
Whether
the
whole
edifice
is
now
excavated
I
am
not
certain
,
but
in
1910
most
of
it
was
below
ground
,
with
the
entrance
heavily
barred
at
night
.
Germans
were
in
charge
of
the
work
,
and
the
war
or
other
things
may
have
stopped
them
.
I
would
give
much
,
in
view
of
my
experience
and
of
certain
Bedouin
whisperings
discredited
or
unknown
in
Cairo
,
to
know
what
has
developed
in
connection
with
a
certain
well
in
a
transverse
gallery
where
statues
of
the
Pharaoh
were
found
in
curious
juxtaposition
to
the
statues
of
baboons
.
The
road
,
as
we
traversed
it
on
our
camels
that
morning
,
curved
sharply
past
the
wooden
police
quarters
,
post
office
,
drug
store
and
shops
on
the
left
,
and
plunged
south
and
east
in
a
complete
bend
that
scaled
the
rock
plateau
and
brought
us
face
to
face
with
the
desert
under
the
lee
of
the
Great
Pyramid
.
Past
Cyclopean
masonry
we
rode
,
rounding
the
eastern
face
and
looking
down
ahead
into
a
valley
of
minor
pyramids
beyond
which
the
eternal
Nile
glistened
to
the
east
,
and
the
eternal
desert
shimmered
to
the
west
.
Very
close
loomed
the
three
major
pyramids
,
the
greatest
devoid
of
outer
casing
and
showing
its
bulk
of
great
stones
,
but
the
others
retaining
here
and
there
the
neatly
fitted
covering
which
had
made
them
smooth
and
finished
in
their
day
.
Presently
we
descended
toward
the
Sphinx
,
and
sat
silent
beneath
the
spell
of
those
terrible
unseeing
eyes
.
On
the
vast
stone
breast
we
faintly
discerned
the
emblem
of
Re
--
Harakhte
,
for
whose
image
the
Sphinx
was
mistaken
in
a
late
dynasty
;
and
though
sand
covered
the
tablet
between
the
great
paws
,
we
recalled
what
Thutmosis
IV
inscribed
thereon
,
and
the
dream
he
had
when
a
prince
.
It
was
then
that
the
smile
of
the
Sphinx
vaguely
displeased
us
,
and
made
us
wonder
about
the
legends
of
subterranean
passages
beneath
the
monstrous
creature
,
leading
down
,
down
,
to
depths
none
might
dare
hint
at
--
depths
connected
with
mysteries
older
than
the
dynastic
Egypt
we
excavate
,
and
having
a
sinister
relation
to
the
persistence
of
abnormal
,
animal-headed
gods
in
the
ancient
Nilotic
pantheon
.
Then
,
too
,
it
was
I
asked
myself
in
idle
question
whose
hideous
significance
was
not
to
appear
for
many
an
hour
.
