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Weird
things
happen
in
the
evenings
.
We
stumble
on
mysterious
temple
rituals
in
the
middle
of
nowhere
,
let
ourselves
get
hypnotized
by
the
chorus
of
voices
,
drums
and
gamelan
.
We
find
one
small
seaside
town
where
all
the
locals
have
gathered
in
a
darkened
street
for
a
birthday
ceremony
;
Yudhi
and
I
are
both
pulled
out
of
the
crowd
(
honored
strangers
)
and
invited
to
dance
with
the
prettiest
girl
in
the
village
.
(
She
’
s
enveloped
in
gold
and
jewels
and
incense
and
Egyptian
-
looking
makeup
;
she
’
s
probably
thirteen
years
old
but
moves
her
hips
with
the
soft
,
sensual
faith
of
a
creature
who
knows
she
could
seduce
any
god
she
wanted
.
)
The
next
day
we
find
a
strange
family
restaurant
in
the
same
village
where
the
Balinese
proprietor
announces
that
he
’
s
a
great
chef
of
Thai
food
,
which
he
decidedly
is
not
,
but
we
spend
the
whole
day
there
anyhow
,
drinking
icy
Cokes
and
eating
greasy
pad
thai
and
playing
Milton
Bradley
board
games
with
the
owner
’
s
elegantly
effeminate
teenage
son
.
(
It
occurs
to
us
only
later
that
this
pretty
teenage
boy
could
well
have
been
the
beautiful
female
dancer
from
the
night
before
;
the
Balinese
are
masters
of
ritual
transvestism
.
)
Every
day
I
call
Felipe
from
whatever
outback
phone
I
can
find
,
and
he
asks
,
"
How
many
more
sleeps
until
you
come
back
to
me
?
"
He
tells
me
,
"
I
’
m
enjoying
falling
in
love
with
you
,
darling
.
It
feels
so
natural
,
like
it
’
s
something
I
experience
every
second
week
,
but
actually
I
haven
’
t
felt
this
way
about
anyone
in
nearly
thirty
years
.
"
Not
there
yet
,
not
yet
to
that
place
of
a
free
fall
into
love
,
I
make
hesitant
noises
,
little
reminders
that
I
am
leaving
in
a
few
months
.
Felipe
is
unconcerned
.
He
says
,
"
Maybe
this
is
just
some
stupid
romantic
South
American
idea
,
but
I
need
you
to
understand
-
darling
,
for
you
,
I
am
even
willing
to
suffer
.
Whatever
pain
happens
to
us
in
the
future
,
I
accept
it
already
,
just
for
the
pleasure
of
being
with
you
now
.
Let
’
s
enjoy
this
time
.
It
’
s
marvelous
.
"
I
tell
him
,
"
You
know
-
it
’
s
funny
,
but
I
’
d
been
seriously
thinking
before
I
met
you
that
I
might
be
alone
and
celibate
forever
.
I
was
thinking
maybe
I
would
live
the
life
of
a
spiritual
contemplative
.
"
He
says
,
"
Contemplate
this
,
darling
…
,
"
and
then
proceeds
to
detail
with
careful
specificity
the
first
,
second
,
third
,
fourth
and
fifth
things
he
is
planning
to
do
with
my
body
when
he
gets
me
alone
in
his
bed
again
.
I
wobble
away
from
the
phone
call
a
little
woozy
in
the
knees
,
amused
and
bamboozled
by
all
this
new
passion
.
The
last
day
of
our
road
trip
,
Yudhi
and
I
lounge
on
a
beach
someplace
for
hours
,
and
-
as
often
happens
with
us
-
we
start
talking
about
New
York
City
again
,
how
great
it
is
,
how
much
we
love
it
.
Yudhi
misses
the
city
,
he
says
,
almost
as
much
as
he
misses
his
wife
-
as
if
New
York
is
a
person
,
a
relative
,
whom
he
has
lost
since
he
got
deported
.
As
we
’
re
talking
,
Yudhi
brushes
off
a
nice
clean
patch
of
white
sand
between
our
towels
and
draws
a
map
of
Manhattan
.
He
says
,
"
Let
’
s
try
to
fill
in
everything
we
can
remember
about
the
city
.
"
We
use
our
fingertips
to
draw
in
all
the
avenues
,
the
major
cross
-
streets
,
the
mess
that
Broadway
makes
as
it
leans
crookedly
across
the
island
,
the
rivers
,
the
Village
,
Central
Park
.
We
choose
a
thin
,
pretty
seashell
to
stand
for
the
Empire
State
Building
,
and
another
shell
is
the
Chrysler
Building
.
Out
of
respect
,
we
take
two
sticks
and
put
the
Twin
Towers
back
at
the
base
of
the
island
,
back
where
they
belong
.
We
use
this
sandy
map
to
show
each
other
our
favorite
spots
in
New
York
This
is
where
Yudhi
bought
the
sunglasses
he
’
s
wearing
right
now
;
this
is
where
I
bought
the
sandals
I
’
m
wearing
.
This
is
where
I
first
had
dinner
with
my
ex
-
husband
;
this
is
where
Yudhi
met
his
wife
.
This
is
the
best
Vietnamese
food
in
the
city
,
this
is
the
best
bagel
,
this
is
the
best
noodle
shop
(
"
No
way
,
homo
-
this
is
the
best
noodle
shop
"
)
.
I
sketch
out
my
old
Hell
’
s
Kitchen
neighborhood
and
Yudhi
says
,
"
I
know
a
good
diner
up
there
.
"
