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Wayan
Nuriyasih
is
,
like
Ketut
Liyer
,
a
Balinese
healer
.
There
are
some
differences
between
them
,
though
.
He
’
s
elderly
and
male
;
she
’
s
a
woman
in
her
late
thirties
.
He
’
s
more
of
a
priestly
figure
,
somewhat
more
mystical
,
while
Wayan
is
a
hands
-
on
doctor
,
mixing
herbs
and
medications
in
her
own
shop
and
taking
care
of
patients
right
there
on
the
premises
.
Wayan
has
a
little
storefront
shop
in
the
center
of
Ubud
called
"
Traditional
Balinese
Healing
Center
.
"
I
’
d
ridden
my
bike
past
it
many
times
on
my
way
down
to
Ketut
’
s
,
noticing
it
because
of
all
the
potted
plants
outside
the
place
,
and
because
of
the
blackboard
with
the
curious
handwritten
advertisement
for
the
"
Multivitamin
Lunch
Special
.
"
But
I
’
d
never
gone
into
the
place
before
my
knee
got
messed
up
.
After
Ketut
sent
me
to
find
a
doctor
,
though
,
I
remembered
the
shop
and
came
by
on
my
bicycle
,
hoping
somebody
there
might
be
able
to
help
me
deal
with
the
infection
.
Wayan
’
s
place
is
a
very
small
medical
clinic
and
home
and
restaurant
all
at
the
same
time
.
Downstairs
there
’
s
a
tiny
kitchen
and
a
modest
public
eating
area
with
three
tables
and
few
chairs
.
Upstairs
there
’
s
a
private
area
where
Wayan
gives
massages
and
treatments
.
There
’
s
one
dark
bedroom
in
the
back
.
I
limped
into
the
shop
with
my
sore
knee
and
introduced
myself
to
Wayan
the
healer
-
a
strikingly
attractive
Balinese
woman
with
a
wide
smile
and
shiny
black
hair
down
to
her
waist
.
There
were
two
shy
young
girls
hiding
behind
her
in
the
kitchen
who
smiled
when
I
waved
to
them
,
then
ducked
away
again
.
I
showed
Wayan
my
infected
wound
and
asked
if
she
could
help
.
Soon
Wayan
had
water
and
herbs
boiling
up
on
the
stove
,
and
was
making
me
drink
jamu
-
traditional
Indonesian
homemade
medicinal
concoctions
.
She
placed
hot
green
leaves
on
my
knee
and
it
started
to
feel
better
immediately
.
We
got
to
talking
.
Her
English
was
excellent
.
Because
she
is
Balinese
,
she
immediately
asked
me
the
three
standard
introductory
questions
-
Where
are
you
going
today
?
Where
are
you
coming
from
?
Are
you
married
?
When
I
told
her
I
wasn
’
t
married
(
"
Not
yet
!
"
)
she
looked
taken
aback
.
"
Never
been
married
?
"
she
asked
.
"
No
,
"
I
lied
.
I
don
’
t
like
lying
,
but
I
generally
have
found
it
’
s
easier
not
to
mention
divorce
to
the
Balinese
because
they
get
so
upset
about
it
.
"
Really
never
been
married
?
"
she
asked
again
,
and
she
was
looking
at
me
with
great
curiosity
now
.
