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- Элизабет Гилберт
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- Ешь, молись, люби
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The
revival
of
the
dream
of
a
fabled
Eden
came
in
the
late
1960s
,
when
the
Indonesian
government
decided
to
reinvent
Bali
for
the
international
tourist
market
as
"
The
Island
of
the
Gods
,
"
launching
a
massively
successful
marketing
campaign
.
The
tourists
who
were
lured
back
to
Bali
were
a
fairly
high
-
minded
crowd
(
this
was
not
Fort
Lauderdale
,
after
all
)
,
and
their
attention
was
guided
toward
the
artistic
and
religious
beauty
inherent
in
the
Balinese
culture
.
Darker
elements
of
history
were
overlooked
.
And
have
remained
overlooked
since
.
Reading
about
all
this
during
my
afternoons
in
the
local
library
leaves
me
somewhat
confused
.
Wait
-
why
did
I
come
to
Bali
again
?
To
search
for
the
balance
between
worldly
pleasure
and
spiritual
devotion
,
right
?
Is
this
,
indeed
,
the
right
setting
for
such
a
search
?
Do
the
Balinese
truly
inhabit
that
peaceful
balance
,
more
than
anyone
else
in
the
world
?
I
mean
,
they
look
balanced
,
what
with
all
the
dancing
and
praying
and
feasting
and
beauty
and
smiling
,
but
I
don
’
t
know
what
’
s
actually
going
on
under
there
.
The
policemen
really
do
wear
flowers
tucked
behind
their
ears
,
but
there
’
s
corruption
all
over
the
place
in
Bali
,
just
like
in
the
rest
of
Indonesia
(
as
I
found
out
firsthand
the
other
day
when
I
passed
a
uniformed
man
a
few
hundred
bucks
of
under
-
the
-
table
cash
to
illegally
extend
my
visa
so
I
could
stay
in
Bali
for
four
months
,
after
all
)
The
Balinese
quite
literally
live
off
their
image
of
being
the
world
’
s
most
peaceful
and
devotional
and
artistically
expressive
people
,
but
how
much
of
that
is
intrinsic
and
how
much
of
that
is
economically
calculated
?
And
how
much
can
an
outsider
like
me
ever
learn
of
the
hidden
stresses
that
might
loiter
behind
those
"
shining
faces
"
?
It
’
s
the
same
here
as
anywhere
else
-
you
look
at
the
picture
too
closely
and
all
the
firm
lines
start
to
melt
away
into
an
indistinct
mass
of
blurry
brushstrokes
and
blended
pixels
.
For
now
,
all
I
can
say
for
certain
is
that
I
love
the
house
I
have
rented
and
that
the
people
in
Bali
have
been
gracious
to
me
without
exception
.
I
find
their
art
and
ceremonies
to
be
beautiful
and
restorative
;
they
seem
to
think
so
,
as
well
.
That
’
s
my
empirical
experience
of
a
place
that
is
probably
far
more
complex
than
I
will
ever
understand
.
But
whatever
the
Balinese
need
to
do
in
order
to
hold
their
own
balance
(
and
make
a
living
)
is
entirely
up
to
them
.
What
I
’
m
here
to
do
is
work
on
my
own
equilibrium
,
and
this
still
feels
,
at
least
for
now
,
like
a
nourishing
climate
in
which
to
do
that
.
I
don
’
t
know
how
old
my
medicine
man
is
.
I
’
ve
asked
him
,
but
he
’
s
not
certain
.
I
seem
to
remember
,
when
I
was
here
two
years
ago
,
the
translator
saying
that
he
was
eighty
.
But
Mario
asked
him
the
other
day
how
old
he
was
and
Ketut
said
,
"
Maybe
sixty
-
five
,
not
sure
.
"
When
I
asked
him
what
year
he
was
born
,
he
said
he
didn
’
t
remember
being
born
.
I
know
he
was
an
adult
when
the
Japanese
were
occupying
Bali
during
World
War
II
,
which
could
make
him
about
eighty
now
.
But
when
he
told
me
the
story
about
burning
his
arm
as
a
young
man
,
and
I
asked
him
what
year
that
had
happened
,
he
said
,
"
I
don
’
t
know
.
Maybe
1920
?
"
So
if
he
was
around
twenty
years
old
in
1920
,
then
that
makes
him
what
now
?
Maybe
a
hundred
and
five
?
So
we
can
estimate
that
he
’
s
somewhere
between
sixty
and
a
hundred
and
five
years
old
.
I
’
ve
also
noticed
that
his
estimation
of
his
age
changes
by
the
day
,
based
on
how
he
feels
.
When
he
’
s
really
tired
,
he
’
ll
sigh
and
say
,
"
Maybe
eighty
-
five
today
,
"
but
when
he
’
s
feeling
more
upbeat
he
’
ll
say
,
"
I
think
I
’
m
sixty
today
.
"
Perhaps
this
is
as
good
a
way
of
estimating
age
as
any
-
how
old
do
you
feel
?
What
else
matters
,
really
?
Still
,
I
’
m
always
trying
to
figure
it
out
.
One
afternoon
I
got
really
simple
,
and
just
said
,
"
Ketut
-
when
is
your
birthday
?
"
"
Thursday
,
"
he
said
.
"
This
Thursday
?
"
"
No
.
Not
this
Thursday
.
A
Thursday
.
"
This
is
a
good
start
…
but
is
there
no
more
information
than
that
?
A
Thursday
in
what
month
?
In
what
year
?
No
telling
.
