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- Элизабет Гилберт
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- Ешь, молись, люби
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Ketut
is
relaxed
and
gracious
with
his
company
.
He
listens
to
the
parents
explain
their
baby
’
s
troubles
.
Then
he
digs
through
a
small
trunk
on
his
porch
and
pulls
out
an
ancient
ledger
filled
with
tiny
writing
in
Balinese
Sanskrit
.
He
consults
this
book
like
a
scholar
,
looking
for
some
combination
of
words
that
will
suit
him
,
talking
and
laughing
with
the
parents
the
whole
time
.
Then
he
takes
a
blank
page
from
a
notebook
with
a
picture
of
Kermit
the
Frog
on
it
,
and
writes
what
he
tells
me
is
"
a
prescription
"
for
the
little
girl
.
The
child
is
being
tormented
by
a
minor
demon
,
he
diagnoses
,
in
addition
to
the
physical
discomforts
of
teething
.
For
the
teething
,
he
advises
the
parents
to
simply
rub
the
baby
’
s
gums
with
pressed
red
onion
juice
.
To
appease
the
demon
,
they
must
make
an
offering
of
a
small
killed
chicken
and
a
small
pig
,
along
with
a
little
bit
of
cake
,
mixed
with
special
herbs
which
their
grandmother
should
definitely
have
access
to
from
her
own
medicine
garden
.
(
This
food
won
’
t
be
wasted
;
after
the
offering
ceremony
,
Balinese
families
are
always
allowed
to
eat
their
own
donations
to
the
gods
,
since
the
offering
is
more
metaphysical
than
literal
.
The
way
the
Balinese
see
it
,
God
takes
what
belongs
to
God
-
the
gesture
-
while
man
takes
what
belongs
to
man
-
the
food
itself
.
)
After
writing
the
prescription
,
Ketut
turns
his
back
to
us
,
fills
a
bowl
with
water
,
and
keens
a
spectacular
,
quietly
chilling
mantra
above
it
.
Then
Ketut
blesses
the
baby
with
the
water
he
has
just
infused
with
sacred
power
.
Even
at
one
year
old
,
the
child
already
knows
how
to
receive
a
holy
blessing
in
the
traditional
Balinese
manner
.
Her
mother
holds
her
,
and
the
baby
puts
out
her
little
plummy
paws
to
receive
the
water
,
sips
it
once
,
sips
it
again
and
splashes
the
rest
on
top
of
her
head
-
a
perfectly
executed
ritual
.
She
could
not
be
less
frightened
of
this
toothless
old
man
who
is
chanting
at
her
.
Then
Ketut
takes
the
rest
of
the
holy
water
and
pours
it
into
a
small
plastic
sandwich
bag
,
ties
the
bag
at
the
top
and
gives
it
to
the
family
to
use
later
.
The
mother
carries
this
plastic
bag
of
water
away
with
her
as
she
leaves
;
it
looks
like
she
has
just
won
a
goldfish
at
the
state
fair
,
only
she
forgot
to
take
the
goldfish
with
her
.
Ketut
Liyer
has
given
this
family
about
forty
minutes
of
his
undivided
attention
,
for
the
fee
of
about
twenty
-
five
cents
.
If
they
hadn
’
t
any
money
at
all
,
he
would
have
done
the
same
;
this
is
his
duty
as
a
healer
.
He
may
turn
nobody
away
,
or
the
gods
will
remove
his
talent
for
healing
.
Ketut
gets
about
ten
visitors
a
day
like
this
,
Balinese
who
need
his
help
or
advice
on
some
holy
or
medical
matter
.
On
highly
auspicious
days
,
when
everyone
wants
a
special
blessing
,
he
might
have
over
one
hundred
visitors
"
Don
’
t
you
get
tired
?
"
"
But
this
is
my
profession
,
"
he
tells
me
.
"
This
is
my
hobby
-
medicine
man
.
"
A
few
more
patients
come
throughout
the
afternoon
,
but
Ketut
and
I
get
some
time
alone
together
on
the
porch
,
too
.
I
’
m
so
comfortable
with
this
medicine
man
,
as
relaxed
as
with
my
own
grandfather
.
He
gives
me
my
first
lesson
in
Balinese
meditation
.
He
tells
me
that
there
are
many
ways
to
find
God
but
most
are
too
complicated
for
Westerners
,
so
he
will
teach
me
an
easy
meditation
.
Which
goes
,
essentially
,
like
this
:
sit
in
silence
and
smile
.
I
love
it
.
He
’
s
laughing
even
as
he
’
s
teaching
it
to
me
.
Sit
and
smile
.
Perfect
.
"
You
study
Yoga
in
India
,
Liss
?
"
he
asks
.
"
Yes
,
Ketut
.
"
"
You
can
do
Yoga
,
"
he
says
,
"
but
Yoga
too
hard
.
"
Here
,
he
contorts
himself
in
a
cramped
lotus
position
and
squinches
up
his
face
in
a
comical
and
constipated
-
looking
effort
.
Then
he
breaks
free
and
laughs
,
asking
,
"
Why
they
always
look
so
serious
in
Yoga
?
You
make
serious
face
like
this
,
you
scare
away
good
energy
.
To
meditate
,
only
you
must
smile
.
Smile
with
face
,
smile
with
mind
,
and
good
energy
will
come
to
you
and
clean
away
dirty
energy
.
Even
smile
in
your
liver
.
Practice
tonight
at
hotel
.
Not
to
hurry
,
not
to
try
too
hard
.
Too
serious
,
you
make
you
sick
.
You
can
calling
the
good
energy
with
a
smile
.
All
finish
for
today
.
See
you
later
,
alligator
.
Come
back
tomorrow
.
I
am
very
happy
to
see
you
,
Liss
.
Let
your
conscience
be
your
guide
.
If
you
have
Western
friends
come
to
visit
Bali
,
bring
them
to
me
for
palm
-
reading
.
I
am
very
empty
in
my
bank
since
the
bomb
.
"
