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Bali
is
a
tiny
Hindu
island
located
in
the
middle
of
the
two
-
thousand
-
mile
-
long
Indonesian
archipelago
that
constitutes
the
most
populous
Muslim
nation
on
earth
.
Bali
is
therefore
a
strange
and
wondrous
thing
;
it
should
not
even
exist
,
yet
does
.
The
island
’
s
Hinduism
was
an
export
from
India
by
way
of
Java
.
Indian
traders
brought
the
religion
east
during
the
fourth
century
AD
.
The
Javanese
kings
founded
a
mighty
Hindu
dynasty
,
little
of
which
remains
today
except
the
impressive
temple
ruins
at
Borobudur
.
In
the
sixteenth
century
,
a
violent
Islamic
uprising
swept
across
the
region
and
the
Shiva
-
worshipping
Hindu
royalty
escaped
Java
,
fleeing
to
Bali
in
droves
during
what
would
be
remembered
as
the
Majapahit
Exodus
.
The
high
-
class
,
high
-
caste
Javanese
brought
with
them
to
Bali
only
their
royal
families
,
their
craftsmen
and
their
priests
-
and
so
it
is
not
a
wild
exaggeration
when
people
say
that
everyone
in
Bali
is
the
descendent
of
either
a
king
,
a
priest
or
an
artist
,
and
that
this
is
why
the
Balinese
have
such
pride
and
brilliance
.
The
Javanese
colonists
brought
their
Hindu
caste
system
with
them
to
Bali
,
though
caste
divisions
were
never
as
brutally
enforced
here
as
they
once
were
in
India
.
Still
,
the
Balinese
recognize
a
complex
social
hierarchy
(
there
are
five
divisions
of
Brahmans
alone
)
and
I
would
have
better
luck
personally
decoding
the
human
genome
than
trying
to
understand
the
intricate
,
interlocking
clan
system
that
still
thrives
here
.
(
The
writer
Fred
B
.
Eiseman
’
s
many
fine
essays
on
Balinese
culture
go
much
further
into
expert
detail
explaining
these
subtleties
,
and
it
is
from
his
research
that
I
take
most
of
my
general
information
,
not
only
here
but
throughout
this
book
.
)
Suffice
it
to
say
for
our
purposes
that
everyone
in
Bali
is
in
a
clan
,
that
everyone
knows
which
clan
he
is
in
,
and
that
everyone
knows
which
clan
everyone
else
is
in
.
And
if
you
get
kicked
out
of
your
clan
for
some
grave
disobedience
,
you
really
might
as
well
jump
into
a
volcano
,
because
,
honestly
,
you
’
re
as
good
as
dead
.
Balinese
culture
is
one
of
the
most
methodical
systems
of
social
and
religious
organization
on
earth
,
a
magnificent
beehive
of
tasks
and
roles
and
ceremonies
.
The
Balinese
are
lodged
,
completely
held
,
within
an
elaborate
lattice
of
customs
.
A
combination
of
several
factors
created
this
network
,
but
basically
we
can
say
that
Bali
is
what
happens
when
the
lavish
rituals
of
traditional
Hinduism
are
superimposed
over
a
vast
rice
-
growing
agricultural
society
that
operates
,
by
necessity
,
with
elaborate
communal
cooperation
.
Rice
terraces
require
an
unbelievable
amount
of
shared
labor
,
maintenance
and
engineering
in
order
to
prosper
,
so
each
Balinese
village
has
a
banjar
-
a
united
organization
of
citizens
who
administer
,
through
consensus
,
the
village
’
s
political
and
economic
and
religious
and
agricultural
decisions
.
In
Bali
,
the
collective
is
absolutely
more
important
than
the
individual
,
or
nobody
eats
.
Religious
ceremonies
are
of
paramount
importance
here
in
Bali
(
an
island
,
don
’
t
forget
,
with
seven
unpredictable
volcanoes
on
it
-
you
would
pray
,
too
)
.
It
has
been
estimated
that
a
typical
Balinese
woman
spends
one
-
third
of
her
waking
hours
either
preparing
for
a
ceremony
,
participating
in
a
ceremony
or
cleaning
up
after
a
ceremony
.
Life
here
is
a
constant
cycle
of
offerings
and
rituals
.
You
must
perform
them
all
,
in
correct
order
and
with
the
correct
intention
,
or
the
entire
universe
will
fall
out
of
balance
.
Margaret
Mead
wrote
about
"
the
incredible
busy
-
ness
"
of
the
Balinese
,
and
it
’
s
true
-
there
is
rarely
an
idle
moment
in
a
Balinese
compound
.
There
are
ceremonies
here
which
must
be
performed
five
times
a
day
and
others
that
must
be
performed
once
a
day
,
once
a
week
,
once
a
month
,
once
a
year
,
once
every
ten
years
,
once
every
hundred
years
,
once
every
thousand
years
.
All
these
dates
and
rituals
are
kept
organized
by
the
priests
and
holy
men
,
who
consult
a
byzantine
system
of
three
separate
calendars
.
There
are
thirteen
major
rites
of
passage
for
every
human
being
in
Bali
,
each
marked
by
a
highly
organized
ceremony
.
Elaborate
spiritual
appeasement
ceremonies
are
conducted
all
throughout
life
,
in
order
to
protect
the
soul
from
the
108
vices
(
108
-
there
’
s
that
number
again
!
)
,
which
include
such
spoilers
as
violence
,
stealing
,
laziness
and
lying
.
Every
Balinese
child
passes
through
a
momentous
puberty
ceremony
in
which
the
canine
teeth
,
or
"
fangs
,
"
are
filed
down
to
a
flat
level
,
for
aesthetic
improvement
.
The
worst
thing
you
can
be
in
Bali
is
coarse
and
animalistic
,
and
these
fangs
are
considered
to
be
reminders
of
our
more
brutal
natures
and
therefore
must
go
.
It
is
dangerous
in
such
a
close
-
knit
culture
for
people
to
be
brutal
.
A
village
’
s
entire
web
of
cooperation
could
be
sliced
through
by
one
person
’
s
murderous
intent
.
Therefore
the
best
thing
you
can
be
in
Bali
is
alus
,
which
means
"
refined
,
"
or
even
"
prettified
.
"
Beauty
is
good
in
Bali
,
for
men
and
women
.
Beauty
is
revered
.
Beauty
is
safety
.
Children
are
taught
to
approach
all
hardship
and
discomfort
with
"
a
shining
face
,
"
a
giant
smile
.
The
whole
idea
of
Bali
is
a
matrix
,
a
massive
and
invisible
grid
of
spirits
,
guides
,
paths
and
customs
.
Every
Balinese
knows
exactly
where
he
or
she
belongs
,
oriented
within
this
great
,
intangible
map
.
Just
look
at
the
four
names
of
almost
every
Balinese
citizen
-
First
,
Second
,
Third
,
Fourth
-
reminding
them
all
of
when
they
were
born
in
the
family
,
and
where
they
belong
.
You
couldn
’
t
have
a
clearer
social
mapping
system
if
you
called
your
kids
North
,
South
,
East
and
West
.
Mario
,
my
new
Italian
-
Indonesian
friend
,
told
me
that
he
is
only
happy
when
he
can
maintain
himself
-
mentally
and
spiritually
-
at
the
intersection
between
a
vertical
line
and
horizontal
one
,
in
a
state
of
perfect
balance
.
For
this
,
he
needs
to
know
exactly
where
he
is
located
at
every
moment
,
both
in
his
relationship
to
the
divine
and
to
his
family
here
on
earth
.
If
he
loses
that
balance
,
he
loses
his
power
.
It
’
s
not
a
ludicrous
hypothesis
,
therefore
,
to
say
that
the
Balinese
are
the
global
masters
of
balance
,
the
people
for
whom
the
maintenance
of
perfect
equilibrium
is
an
art
,
a
science
and
a
religion
.
For
me
,
on
a
personal
search
for
balance
,
I
had
hoped
to
learn
much
from
the
Balinese
about
holding
steady
in
this
chaotic
world
.
