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“
Very
likely
.
”
Hurliguerly
,
a
good
fellow
at
bottom
,
as
I
afterwards
learned
,
discerned
a
little
touch
of
irony
in
my
tone
;
but
he
did
not
appear
to
do
so
;
he
was
resolved
to
persevere
in
his
patronage
of
me
.
And
,
indeed
,
his
conversation
could
not
be
otherwise
than
profitable
to
me
,
for
he
was
thoroughly
acquainted
with
the
Falkland
Islands
.
The
result
was
that
on
the
following
day
I
went
ashore
adequately
prepared
to
begin
my
perquisitions
.
At
that
period
the
Falklands
were
not
utilized
as
they
have
been
since
.
It
was
at
a
later
date
that
Port
Stanley
—
described
by
Elisée
Réclus
,
the
French
geographer
,
as
“
ideal
”
—
was
discovered
.
Port
Stanley
is
sheltered
at
every
point
of
the
compass
,
and
could
contain
all
the
fleets
of
Great
Britain
.
If
I
had
been
sailing
for
the
last
two
months
with
bandaged
eyes
,
and
without
knowing
whither
the
Halbrane
was
bound
,
and
had
been
asked
during
the
first
few
hours
at
our
moorings
,
“
Are
you
in
the
Falkland
Isles
or
in
Norway
?
”
I
should
have
puzzled
how
to
answer
the
question
.
For
here
were
coasts
forming
deep
creeks
,
the
steep
hills
with
peaked
sides
,
and
the
coast
-
ledges
faced
with
grey
rock
.
Even
the
seaside
climate
,
exempt
from
great
extremes
of
cold
and
heat
,
is
common
to
the
two
countries
.
Besides
,
the
frequent
rains
of
Scandinavia
visit
Magellan
’
s
region
in
like
abundance
.
Both
have
dense
fogs
,
and
,
in
spring
and
autumn
,
winds
so
fierce
that
the
very
vegetables
in
the
fields
are
frequently
rooted
up
.
A
few
walks
inland
would
,
however
,
have
sufficed
to
make
me
recognize
that
I
was
still
separated
by
the
equator
from
the
waters
of
Northern
Europe
.
What
had
I
found
to
observe
in
the
neighbourhood
of
Port
Egmont
after
my
explorations
of
the
first
few
days
?
Nothing
but
the
signs
of
a
sickly
vegetation
,
nowhere
arborescent
.
Here
and
there
a
few
shrubs
grew
,
in
place
of
the
flourishing
firs
of
the
Norwegian
mountains
,
and
the
surface
of
a
spongy
soil
which
sinks
and
rises
under
the
foot
is
carpeted
with
mosses
,
fungi
,
and
lichens
.
No
!
this
was
not
the
enticing
country
where
the
echoes
of
the
sagas
resound
,
this
was
not
the
poetic
realm
of
Wodin
and
the
Valkyries
.
On
the
deep
waters
of
the
Falkland
Strait
,
which
separates
the
two
principal
isles
,
great
masses
of
extraordinary
aquatic
vegetation
floated
,
and
the
bays
of
the
Archipelago
,
where
whales
were
already
becoming
scarce
,
were
frequented
by
other
marine
mammals
of
enormous
size
—
seals
,
twenty
-
five
feet
long
by
twenty
in
circumference
,
and
great
numbers
of
sea
elephants
,
wolves
,
and
lions
,
of
proportions
no
less
gigantic
.
The
uproar
made
by
these
animals
,
by
the
females
and
their
young
especially
,
surpasses
description
.
One
would
think
that
herds
of
cattle
were
bellowing
on
the
beach
.
Neither
difficulty
nor
danger
attends
the
capture
,
or
at
least
the
slaughter
of
the
marine
beasts
.
The
sealers
kill
them
with
a
blow
of
a
club
when
they
are
lying
in
the
sands
on
the
strand
.
These
are
the
special
features
that
differentiate
Scandinavia
from
the
Falklands
,
not
to
speak
of
the
infinite
number
of
birds
which
rose
on
my
approach
,
grebe
,
cormorants
,
black
-
headed
swans
,
and
above
all
,
tribes
of
penguins
,
of
which
hundreds
of
thousands
are
massacred
every
year
.
One
day
,
when
the
air
was
filled
with
a
sound
of
braying
,
sufficient
to
deafen
one
,
I
asked
an
old
sailor
belonging
to
Port
Egmont
,
—
“
Are
there
asses
about
here
?
”
“
Sir
,
”
he
replied
,
“
those
are
not
asses
that
you
hear
,
but
penguins
.
”
