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But
perhaps
it
was
a
peety
,
"
says
my
host
,
"
for
he
is
always
on
the
road
,
going
from
one
place
to
another
to
hear
the
young
folk
say
their
religion
;
and
,
doubtless
,
that
is
a
great
temptation
to
the
poor
man
.
"
At
last
,
when
my
landlord
could
drink
no
more
,
he
showed
me
to
a
bed
,
and
I
lay
down
in
very
good
spirits
;
having
travelled
the
greater
part
of
that
big
and
crooked
Island
of
Mull
,
from
Earraid
to
Torosay
,
fifty
miles
as
the
crow
flies
,
and
(
with
my
wanderings
)
much
nearer
a
hundred
,
in
four
days
and
with
little
fatigue
.
Indeed
I
was
by
far
in
better
heart
and
health
of
body
at
the
end
of
that
long
tramp
than
I
had
been
at
the
beginning
.
There
is
a
regular
ferry
from
Torosay
to
Kinlochaline
on
the
mainland
.
Both
shores
of
the
Sound
are
in
the
country
of
the
strong
clan
of
the
Macleans
,
and
the
people
that
passed
the
ferry
with
me
were
almost
all
of
that
clan
.
The
skipper
of
the
boat
,
on
the
other
hand
,
was
called
Neil
Roy
Macrob
;
and
since
Macrob
was
one
of
the
names
of
Alan
's
clansmen
,
and
Alan
himself
had
sent
me
to
that
ferry
,
I
was
eager
to
come
to
private
speech
of
Neil
Roy
.
In
the
crowded
boat
this
was
of
course
impossible
,
and
the
passage
was
a
very
slow
affair
.
There
was
no
wind
,
and
as
the
boat
was
wretchedly
equipped
,
we
could
pull
but
two
oars
on
one
side
,
and
one
on
the
other
.
The
men
gave
way
,
however
,
with
a
good
will
,
the
passengers
taking
spells
to
help
them
,
and
the
whole
company
giving
the
time
in
Gaelic
boat-songs
.
And
what
with
the
songs
,
and
the
sea-air
,
and
the
good-nature
and
spirit
of
all
concerned
,
and
the
bright
weather
,
the
passage
was
a
pretty
thing
to
have
seen
.
But
there
was
one
melancholy
part
.
In
the
mouth
of
Loch
Aline
we
found
a
great
sea-going
ship
at
anchor
;
and
this
I
supposed
at
first
to
be
one
of
the
King
's
cruisers
which
were
kept
along
that
coast
,
both
summer
and
winter
,
to
prevent
communication
with
the
French
.
As
we
got
a
little
nearer
,
it
became
plain
she
was
a
ship
of
merchandise
;
and
what
still
more
puzzled
me
,
not
only
her
decks
,
but
the
sea-beach
also
,
were
quite
black
with
people
,
and
skiffs
were
continually
plying
to
and
fro
between
them
.
Yet
nearer
,
and
there
began
to
come
to
our
ears
a
great
sound
of
mourning
,
the
people
on
board
and
those
on
the
shore
crying
and
lamenting
one
to
another
so
as
to
pierce
the
heart
.
Then
I
understood
this
was
an
emigrant
ship
bound
for
the
American
colonies
.
We
put
the
ferry-boat
alongside
,
and
the
exiles
leaned
over
the
bulwarks
,
weeping
and
reaching
out
their
hands
to
my
fellow-passengers
,
among
whom
they
counted
some
near
friends
.
How
long
this
might
have
gone
on
I
do
not
know
,
for
they
seemed
to
have
no
sense
of
time
:
but
at
last
the
captain
of
the
ship
,
who
seemed
near
beside
himself
(
and
no
great
wonder
)
in
the
midst
of
this
crying
and
confusion
,
came
to
the
side
and
begged
us
to
depart
.
Thereupon
Neil
sheered
off
;
and
the
chief
singer
in
our
boat
struck
into
a
melancholy
air
,
which
was
presently
taken
up
both
by
the
emigrants
and
their
friends
upon
the
beach
,
so
that
it
sounded
from
all
sides
like
a
lament
for
the
dying
.
I
saw
the
tears
run
down
the
cheeks
of
the
men
and
women
in
the
boat
,
even
as
they
bent
at
the
oars
;
and
the
circumstances
and
the
music
of
the
song
(
which
is
one
called
"
Lochaber
no
more
"
)
were
highly
affecting
even
to
myself
.
At
Kinlochaline
I
got
Neil
Roy
upon
one
side
on
the
beach
,
and
said
I
made
sure
he
was
one
of
Appin
's
men
.
