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"
I
not
only
started
late
,
but
I
must
have
wandered
nearly
half
the
time
.
True
,
I
met
plenty
of
people
,
grubbing
in
little
miserable
fields
that
would
not
keep
a
cat
,
or
herding
little
kine
about
the
bigness
of
asses
.
The
Highland
dress
being
forbidden
by
law
since
the
rebellion
,
and
the
people
condemned
to
the
Lowland
habit
,
which
they
much
disliked
,
it
was
strange
to
see
the
variety
of
their
array
.
Some
went
bare
,
only
for
a
hanging
cloak
or
great-coat
,
and
carried
their
trousers
on
their
backs
like
a
useless
burthen
:
some
had
made
an
imitation
of
the
tartan
with
little
parti-coloured
stripes
patched
together
like
an
old
wife
's
quilt
;
others
,
again
,
still
wore
the
Highland
philabeg
,
but
by
putting
a
few
stitches
between
the
legs
transformed
it
into
a
pair
of
trousers
like
a
Dutchman
's
.
All
those
makeshifts
were
condemned
and
punished
,
for
the
law
was
harshly
applied
,
in
hopes
to
break
up
the
clan
spirit
;
but
in
that
out-of-the-way
,
sea-bound
isle
,
there
were
few
to
make
remarks
and
fewer
to
tell
tales
.
They
seemed
in
great
poverty
;
which
was
no
doubt
natural
,
now
that
rapine
was
put
down
,
and
the
chiefs
kept
no
longer
an
open
house
;
and
the
roads
(
even
such
a
wandering
,
country
by-track
as
the
one
I
followed
)
were
infested
with
beggars
.
And
here
again
I
marked
a
difference
from
my
own
part
of
the
country
.
For
our
Lowland
beggars
--
even
the
gownsmen
themselves
,
who
beg
by
patent
--
had
a
louting
,
flattering
way
with
them
,
and
if
you
gave
them
a
plaek
and
asked
change
,
would
very
civilly
return
you
a
boddle
.
But
these
Highland
beggars
stood
on
their
dignity
,
asked
alms
only
to
buy
snuff
(
by
their
account
)
and
would
give
no
change
.
To
be
sure
,
this
was
no
concern
of
mine
,
except
in
so
far
as
it
entertained
me
by
the
way
.
What
was
much
more
to
the
purpose
,
few
had
any
English
,
and
these
few
(
unless
they
were
of
the
brotherhood
of
beggars
)
not
very
anxious
to
place
it
at
my
service
.
I
knew
Torosay
to
be
my
destination
,
and
repeated
the
name
to
them
and
pointed
;
but
instead
of
simply
pointing
in
reply
,
they
would
give
me
a
screed
of
the
Gaelic
that
set
me
foolish
;
so
it
was
small
wonder
if
I
went
out
of
my
road
as
often
as
I
stayed
in
it
.
At
last
,
about
eight
at
night
,
and
already
very
weary
,
I
came
to
a
lone
house
,
where
I
asked
admittance
,
and
was
refused
,
until
I
bethought
me
of
the
power
of
money
in
so
poor
a
country
,
and
held
up
one
of
my
guineas
in
my
finger
and
thumb
.
Thereupon
,
the
man
of
the
house
,
who
had
hitherto
pretended
to
have
no
English
,
and
driven
me
from
his
door
by
signals
,
suddenly
began
to
speak
as
clearly
as
was
needful
,
and
agreed
for
five
shillings
to
give
me
a
night
's
lodging
and
guide
me
the
next
day
to
Torosay
.
I
slept
uneasily
that
night
,
fearing
I
should
be
robbed
;
but
I
might
have
spared
myself
the
pain
;
for
my
host
was
no
robber
,
only
miserably
poor
and
a
great
cheat
.
He
was
not
alone
in
his
poverty
;
for
the
next
morning
,
we
must
go
five
miles
about
to
the
house
of
what
he
called
a
rich
man
to
have
one
of
my
guineas
changed
.
This
was
perhaps
a
rich
man
for
Mull
;
he
would
have
scarce
been
thought
so
in
the
south
;
for
it
took
all
he
had
--
the
whole
house
was
turned
upside
down
,
and
a
neighbour
brought
under
contribution
,
before
he
could
scrape
together
twenty
shillings
in
silver
.
The
odd
shilling
he
kept
for
himself
,
protesting
he
could
ill
afford
to
have
so
great
a
sum
of
money
lying
"
locked
up
.
"
For
all
that
he
was
very
courteous
and
well
spoken
,
made
us
both
sit
down
with
his
family
to
dinner
,
and
brewed
punch
in
a
fine
china
bowl
,
over
which
my
rascal
guide
grew
so
merry
that
he
refused
to
start
.
I
was
for
getting
angry
,
and
appealed
to
the
rich
man
(
Hector
Maclean
was
his
name
)
,
who
had
been
a
witness
to
our
bargain
and
to
my
payment
of
the
five
shillings
.
But
Maclean
had
taken
his
share
of
the
punch
,
and
vowed
that
no
gentleman
should
leave
his
table
after
the
bowl
was
brewed
;
so
there
was
nothing
for
it
but
to
sit
and
hear
Jacobite
toasts
and
Gaelic
songs
,
till
all
were
tipsy
and
staggered
off
to
the
bed
or
the
barn
for
their
night
's
rest
.
Next
day
(
the
fourth
of
my
travels
)
we
were
up
before
five
upon
the
clock
;
but
my
rascal
guide
got
to
the
bottle
at
once
,
and
it
was
three
hours
before
I
had
him
clear
of
the
house
,
and
then
(
as
you
shall
hear
)
only
for
a
worse
disappointment
.
