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I
had
to
do
some
explaining
to
Luca
about
how
much
time
it
takes
to
roast
a
twenty
-
pound
turkey
.
I
told
him
his
birthday
feast
would
probably
be
ready
to
eat
,
at
that
rate
,
around
dawn
the
next
day
.
He
was
destroyed
.
"
But
what
if
we
bought
a
very
small
turkey
?
A
just
-
born
turkey
?
"
I
said
,
"
Luca
-
let
’
s
make
it
easy
and
have
pizza
,
like
every
other
good
dysfunctional
American
family
does
on
Thanksgiving
.
"
But
he
’
s
still
sad
about
it
.
Though
there
’
s
a
general
sadness
around
Rome
right
now
,
anyway
.
The
weather
has
turned
cold
.
The
sanitation
workers
and
the
train
employees
and
the
national
airline
all
went
on
strike
on
the
same
day
.
A
study
has
just
been
released
saying
that
36
percent
of
Italian
children
have
an
allergy
to
the
gluten
needed
to
make
pasta
,
pizza
and
bread
,
so
there
goes
Italian
culture
.
Even
worse
,
I
recently
saw
an
article
with
the
shocking
headline
:
"
Insoddisfatte
6
Donne
su
10
!
"
Meaning
that
six
out
of
ten
Italian
women
are
sexually
unsatisfied
.
Moreover
,
35
percent
of
Italian
men
are
reporting
difficulty
maintaining
un
’
erezione
,
leaving
researchers
feeling
very
perplessi
indeed
,
and
making
me
wonder
if
SEX
should
be
allowed
to
be
Rome
’
s
special
word
anymore
,
after
all
.
In
more
serious
bad
news
,
nineteen
Italian
soldiers
have
recently
been
killed
in
The
Americans
’
War
(
as
it
is
called
here
)
in
Iraq
-
the
largest
number
of
military
deaths
in
Italy
since
World
War
II
.
The
Romans
were
shocked
by
these
deaths
and
the
city
closed
down
the
day
the
boys
were
buried
.
The
wide
majority
of
Italians
want
nothing
to
do
with
George
Bush
’
s
war
.
The
involvement
was
the
decision
of
Silvio
Berlusconi
,
Italy
’
s
prime
minister
(
more
commonly
referred
to
around
these
parts
as
l
’
idiota
)
.
This
intellect
-
free
,
soccer
-
club
-
owning
businessman
,
with
his
oily
film
of
corruption
and
sleaze
,
who
regularly
embarrasses
his
fellow
citizens
by
making
lewd
gestures
in
the
European
parliament
,
who
has
mastered
the
art
of
speaking
l
’
aria
fritta
(
"
fried
air
"
)
,
who
expertly
manipulates
the
media
(
not
difficult
when
you
own
it
)
,
and
who
generally
behaves
not
at
all
like
a
proper
world
leader
but
rather
like
a
Waterbury
mayor
(
that
’
s
an
inside
joke
for
Connecticut
residents
only
-
sorry
)
,
has
now
engaged
the
Italians
in
a
war
they
see
as
none
of
their
business
whatsoever
.
"
They
died
for
freedom
,
"
Berlusconi
said
at
the
funeral
of
the
nineteen
Italian
soldiers
,
but
most
Romans
have
a
different
opinion
:
They
died
for
George
Bush
’
s
personal
vendetta
.
In
this
political
climate
,
one
might
think
it
would
be
difficult
to
be
a
visiting
American
.
Indeed
,
when
I
came
to
Italy
,
I
expected
to
encounter
a
certain
amount
of
resentment
,
but
have
received
instead
empathy
from
most
Italians
.
In
any
reference
to
George
Bush
,
people
only
nod
to
Berlusconi
,
saying
,
"
We
understand
how
it
is
-
we
have
one
,
too
.
"
We
’
ve
been
there
.
It
is
odd
,
then
,
that
Luca
would
want
to
use
this
birthday
to
celebrate
an
American
Thanksgiving
,
given
these
circumstances
,
but
I
do
like
the
idea
of
it
.
Thanksgiving
is
a
nice
holiday
,
something
an
American
can
freely
be
proud
of
,
our
one
national
festival
that
has
remained
relatively
uncommodified
.
It
’
s
a
day
of
grace
and
thanks
and
community
and
-
yes
-
pleasure
.
It
might
be
what
we
all
need
right
now
.
My
friend
Deborah
has
come
to
Rome
from
Philadelphia
for
the
weekend
,
to
celebrate
the
holiday
with
me
.