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I
remember
something
that
my
friend
Maria
’
s
husband
,
Giulio
,
said
to
me
once
.
We
were
sitting
in
an
outdoor
cafe
,
having
our
conversation
practice
,
and
he
asked
me
what
I
thought
of
Rome
.
I
told
him
I
really
loved
the
place
,
of
course
,
but
somehow
knew
it
was
not
my
city
,
not
where
I
’
d
end
up
living
for
the
rest
of
my
life
.
There
was
something
about
Rome
that
didn
’
t
belong
to
me
,
and
I
couldn
’
t
quite
figure
out
what
it
was
.
Just
as
we
were
talking
,
a
helpful
visual
aid
walked
by
.
It
was
the
quintessential
Roman
woman
-
a
fantastically
maintained
,
jewelry
-
sodden
forty
-
something
dame
wearing
four
-
inch
heels
,
a
tight
skirt
with
a
slit
as
long
as
your
arm
,
and
those
sunglasses
that
look
like
race
cars
(
and
probably
cost
as
much
)
.
She
was
walking
her
little
fancy
dog
on
a
gem
-
studded
leash
,
and
the
fur
collar
on
her
tight
jacket
looked
as
if
it
had
been
made
out
of
the
pelt
of
her
former
little
fancy
dog
.
She
was
exuding
an
unbelievably
glamorous
air
of
:
"
You
will
look
at
me
,
but
I
will
refuse
to
look
at
you
.
"
It
was
hard
to
imagine
she
had
ever
,
even
for
ten
minutes
of
her
life
,
not
worn
mascara
.
This
woman
was
in
every
way
the
opposite
of
me
,
who
dresses
in
a
style
my
sister
refers
to
as
"
Stevie
Nicks
Goes
to
Yoga
Class
in
Her
Pajamas
.
"
I
pointed
that
woman
out
to
Giulio
,
and
I
said
,
"
See
,
Giulio
-
that
is
a
Roman
woman
.
Rome
cannot
be
her
city
and
my
city
,
too
.
Only
one
of
us
really
belongs
here
.
And
I
think
we
both
know
which
one
.
"
Giulio
said
,
"
Maybe
you
and
Rome
just
have
different
words
.
"
"
What
do
you
mean
?
"
He
said
,
"
Don
’
t
you
know
that
the
secret
to
understanding
a
city
and
its
people
is
to
learn
-
what
is
the
word
of
the
street
?
"
Then
he
went
on
to
explain
,
in
a
mixture
of
English
,
Italian
and
hand
gestures
,
that
every
city
has
a
single
word
that
defines
it
,
that
identifies
most
people
who
live
there
.
If
you
could
read
people
’
s
thoughts
as
they
were
passing
you
on
the
streets
of
any
given
place
,
you
would
discover
that
most
of
them
are
thinking
the
same
thought
.
Whatever
that
majority
thought
might
be
-
that
is
the
word
of
the
city
.
And
if
your
personal
word
does
not
match
the
word
of
the
city
,
then
you
don
’
t
really
belong
there
.
"
What
’
s
Rome
’
s
word
?
"
I
asked
.
"
SEX
,
"
he
announced
.
"
But
isn
’
t
that
a
stereotype
about
Rome
?
"
