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In
our
hours
together
on
this
porch
,
Ketut
has
asked
me
questions
about
everything
from
how
much
cars
cost
in
Mexico
to
what
causes
AIDS
.
(
I
did
my
best
with
both
topics
,
though
I
believe
there
are
experts
who
could
have
answered
with
more
substance
.
)
Ketut
has
never
been
off
the
island
of
Bali
in
his
life
He
has
spent
very
little
time
,
actually
,
off
this
porch
.
He
once
went
on
a
pilgrimage
to
Mount
Agung
,
the
biggest
and
most
spiritually
important
volcano
on
Bali
,
but
he
said
the
energy
was
so
powerful
there
he
could
scarcely
meditate
for
fear
he
might
be
consumed
by
sacred
fire
.
He
goes
to
the
temples
for
the
big
important
ceremonies
and
he
is
invited
to
his
neighbors
’
homes
to
perform
weddings
or
coming
-
of
-
age
rituals
,
but
most
of
the
time
he
can
be
found
right
here
,
cross
-
legged
upon
this
bamboo
mat
,
surrounded
by
his
great
-
grandfather
’
s
palm
-
leaf
medical
encyclopedias
,
taking
care
of
people
,
mollifying
demons
and
occasionally
treating
himself
to
a
cup
of
coffee
with
sugar
.
"
I
had
a
dream
from
you
last
night
,
"
he
told
me
today
.
"
I
had
a
dream
you
are
riding
your
bicycle
anywhere
.
"
Because
he
paused
,
I
suggested
a
grammatical
correction
.
"
Do
you
mean
,
you
had
a
dream
that
I
was
riding
my
bicycle
everywhere
?
"
"
Yes
!
I
dream
last
night
you
are
riding
your
bicycle
anywhere
and
everywhere
.
You
are
so
happy
in
my
dream
!
All
over
world
,
you
are
riding
your
bicycle
.
And
I
following
you
!
"
Maybe
he
wishes
he
could
…
"
Maybe
you
can
come
see
me
someday
in
America
,
Ketut
,
"
I
said
.
"
Can
’
t
,
Liss
.
"
He
shook
his
head
,
cheerfully
resigned
to
his
destiny
.
"
Don
’
t
have
enough
teeth
to
travel
on
airplane
.
"
As
for
Ketut
’
s
wife
,
it
takes
me
a
while
to
align
myself
with
her
.
Nyomo
,
as
he
calls
her
,
is
big
and
plump
with
a
stiff
-
hip
limp
and
teeth
stained
red
by
chewing
on
betel
nut
tobacco
.
Her
toes
are
painfully
crooked
from
arthritis
.
She
has
a
shrewd
eye
.
She
was
scary
to
me
from
the
first
sight
.
She
’
s
got
that
fierce
old
lady
vibe
you
see
sometimes
in
Italian
widows
and
righteous
black
churchgoing
mamas
.
She
looks
like
she
’
d
whup
your
hide
for
the
slightest
of
misdemeanors
.
She
was
blatantly
suspicious
of
me
at
first
-
Who
is
this
flamingo
traipsing
through
my
house
every
day
?
She
would
stare
at
me
from
inside
the
sooty
shadows
of
her
kitchen
,
unconvinced
as
to
my
right
to
exist
.
I
would
smile
at
her
and
she
’
d
just
keep
staring
,
deciding
whether
she
should
chase
me
out
with
a
broomstick
or
not
.
But
then
something
changed
.
It
was
after
the
whole
photocopy
incident
.