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I
had
for
breakfast
more
paprika
,
and
a
sort
of
porridge
of
maize
flour
which
they
said
was
"
mamaliga
"
,
and
egg-plant
stuffed
with
forcemeat
,
a
very
excellent
dish
,
which
they
call
"
impletata
"
.
(
Mem.
,
get
recipe
for
this
also
.
)
I
had
to
hurry
breakfast
,
for
the
train
started
a
little
before
eight
,
or
rather
it
ought
to
have
done
so
,
for
after
rushing
to
the
station
at
7:30
I
had
to
sit
in
the
carriage
for
more
than
an
hour
before
we
began
to
move
.
It
seems
to
me
that
the
further
east
you
go
the
more
unpunctual
are
the
trains
.
What
ought
they
to
be
in
China
?
All
day
long
we
seemed
to
dawdle
through
a
country
which
was
full
of
beauty
of
every
kind
.
Sometimes
we
saw
little
towns
or
castles
on
the
top
of
steep
hills
such
as
we
see
in
old
missals
;
sometimes
we
ran
by
rivers
and
streams
which
seemed
from
the
wide
stony
margin
on
each
side
of
them
to
be
subject
to
great
floods
.
It
takes
a
lot
of
water
,
and
running
strong
,
to
sweep
the
outside
edge
of
a
river
clear
.
At
every
station
there
were
groups
of
people
,
sometimes
crowds
,
and
in
all
sorts
of
attire
.
Some
of
them
were
just
like
the
peasants
at
home
or
those
I
saw
coming
through
France
and
Germany
,
with
short
jackets
,
and
round
hats
,
and
home-made
trousers
;
but
others
were
very
picturesque
.
The
women
looked
pretty
,
except
when
you
got
near
them
,
but
they
were
very
clumsy
about
the
waist
.
They
had
all
full
white
sleeves
of
some
kind
or
other
,
and
most
of
them
had
big
belts
with
a
lot
of
strips
of
something
fluttering
from
them
like
the
dresses
in
a
ballet
,
but
of
course
there
were
petticoats
under
them
.
The
strangest
figures
we
saw
were
the
Slovaks
,
who
were
more
barbarian
than
the
rest
,
with
their
big
cow-boy
hats
,
great
baggy
dirty-white
trousers
,
white
linen
shirts
,
and
enormous
heavy
leather
belts
,
nearly
a
foot
wide
,
all
studded
over
with
brass
nails
.
They
wore
high
boots
,
with
their
trousers
tucked
into
them
,
and
had
long
black
hair
and
heavy
black
moustaches
.
They
are
very
picturesque
,
but
do
not
look
prepossessing
.
On
the
stage
they
would
be
set
down
at
once
as
some
old
Oriental
band
of
brigands
.
They
are
,
however
,
I
am
told
,
very
harmless
and
rather
wanting
in
natural
self-assertion
.
It
was
on
the
dark
side
of
twilight
when
we
got
to
Bistritz
,
which
is
a
very
interesting
old
place
.
Being
practically
on
the
frontier
--
for
the
Borgo
Pass
leads
from
it
into
Bukovina
--
it
has
had
a
very
stormy
existence
,
and
it
certainly
shows
marks
of
it
.
Fifty
years
ago
a
series
of
great
fires
took
place
,
which
made
terrible
havoc
on
five
separate
occasions
.
At
the
very
beginning
of
the
seventeenth
century
it
underwent
a
siege
of
three
weeks
and
lost
13,000
people
,
the
casualties
of
war
proper
being
assisted
by
famine
and
disease
.
Count
Dracula
had
directed
me
to
go
to
the
Golden
Krone
Hotel
,
which
I
found
,
to
my
great
delight
,
to
be
thoroughly
old-fashioned
,
for
of
course
I
wanted
to
see
all
I
could
of
the
ways
of
the
country
.
